First Lady Fashion

In a WWD article by Bridget Foley, she discusses the First Lady's penchant for little-known designers, most of whom aren't even American.

Now, the question is should Ms. Obama diversify her wardrobe choices, for the sake of the fashion industry. As Foley puts it,
"Who cares about one woman’s wardrobe choices in this time of turmoil? A lot of people." "As Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa puts it, 'We’d be thrilled to dress the First Lady, of course. She has the power to influence consumers.'" Tommy Hilfiger is glad that the First Lady isn't only wearing high end ad American couture. He thinks it puts her in touch with "real people."

Michael Kors adds, "'She’s the first First Lady who’s ever worn sportswear,” he says. “If you think about it, she’s worn everybody from Azzedine Alaïa to Michael Kors to Isabel Toledo or Jason Wu to J. Crew to Donna Ricco.'" Other designers, while applauding her choices for the most part, wish she would consider some other, more well-known names in fashion.

Foley states, "by extension, then, Obama’s choices represent what’s right, active and modern about American fashion."

The British Are Coming

In a WWD article by David Moin, it's announced that mega-retailer Topshop has opened its doors in the US, specifically, at 478 Broadway, in New York City.

The London-based retailer, whose clothes and accessories have long been coveted by stylish women the world over, is now available stateside, with no shipping and handling charges.

Says Sir Philip Green, owner of Topshop parent company Arcadia Group, “This is genuinely the best store we have ever built... we see this as a launchpad for a business in America.”

Topshop is milking the opening, hosting parties and dinners for media and socialites this week in advance of the US opening. The grand finale will be the ribbon cutting with model Kate Moss on Thursday. Moss has been doing an exclusive collection for the store since 2006.

The store's interior is a complete reflection of English quirkiness and irreverent charm. Featuring four-levels, the 40,000-square-foot space, with 28,000 square feet for selling, "is an eyeful of energetic, packed merchandising with about 2,000 stockkeeping units, a broad price range from moderate to bridge, and dozens of mannequins and forms, either dangling from the high, 30-foot ceilings or sitting atop the alcoves."

As of last year, before the recession hit, sources estimated the flagship’s volume at $30 million to $40 million. Green states: “It’s impossible to know, but we have shipped in a lot of inventory. This is a learning curve. Am I nervous? Absolutely not. If we do our job well, people will shop here. You get a ‘wow’ feeling, even when the store is empty of shoppers. Imagine what it will be like with people shopping.”

Conspicuous Consumption

In a WWD article by Jacob Bernstein,readers are shown the previous patterns of spending, and how they measure up today, no doubt in light of the current economic situation that plagues our country. It has become, "a binge and purge", and a "boom and bust" moment.

An example:

Boom: Paris Hilton
Paris is a perfect example of how the rich get richer, and people who are actually talented receive no time in the limelight, however well-deserved. Celebrities of her calibre are often famous for doing nothing truly relevant, if not just to entertain the masses with their antics.

Bust: Suze Orman
The financial expert is everywhere these days: on books, on Oprah, on CNN. Money-saving and tightening the belt-loops has become de rigueur.

Other "booms" include the CNBC network with John Stewart, and socialites without money. The busts? Things like restructuring as a business strategy and distressed real estate.

What once was, no longer is. Although a light-hearted take on the world's current economic meltdown, it does open our eyes and perhaps make us put our money where our mouth is.

The Domino Effect

Domino Magazine, of Condé Nast, is set to fold, WWD is reporting. The lifestyle/ home decor/ fashion magazine, which had seen a nice robust growth in sales, is having trouble keeping their ad pages up. The closing of the magazine comes as a shock, as just two weeks ago, Condé Nast "trumpeted the decision to give Bill Wackermann, senior vice president and publishing director of Glamour and Condé Nast Bridal Media, oversight of the troubled magazine to help boost its business."

There was no hint of the closing at the publsher's meeting, also held two weeks ago.

As stated earlier, the sales of the magazine were solid,"with its rate base swelling to 850,000 from 450,000 in just under four years — boosted by the inclusion of subscribers from the shuttered House & Garden. But, ad pages weren’t growing. Additionally,Home, Cottage Living, O at Home, Vogue Living and Country Home have all folded in recent months, all a sign of the tight economy.

But what of the employees of the magazine? "According to the company spokeswoman, several employees from the magazine’s edit and business sides will be placed in limited open positions at the company."

Art & YSL

In an article by the WWD Staff writers, tribute is payed to one of the most celebrated designers of our the time, the late Yves Saint Laurent.

A tribute payed in artwork.

This week, thousands of Parisians flocked to the Grand Palais to view the designer's 700+ piece collection that once filled his apartment that he shared with his parter, Pierre Bergé. Most of the art is up for sale. Auction goer Betty Catroux noted, “'It’s only now I realise how lucky I was to live among such beauty,' adding she’ll accompany Bergé through 'every minute' of the three-day sale. 'We are a close family you know. We never leave each other’s side.'"

The art is being displayed in replica rooms of Saint Laurent's apartment, and the special set up allows visitors to see the art close up, almost within arms reach. The reason? Scenographer Nathalie Crinière says, “that's because they’re still part of life, there’re not in a museum yet,” he explained. Crinière directed a team of 250 people who worked on the installation non-stop for a week.

The art is a hodge-podge of sculpture, classical pieces, and post-modern works. Renowned painters, including Picasso, Matisse, Mondrian and Degas, round out the beautiful display. “'It’s a beautiful homage but it’s very sad, I saw these pieces several times in Yves Saint-Laurent’s homes,' mused Hubert de Givenchy."

Because You're Worth It

The multi-facited brand that reminds women everywhere that they're worth it has been on a steady track to reinvent their image for 2009. In a WWD article by Jennifer Weil, the mega-brand is planning several upcoming changes for the company, including "up[ping] its advertising outlay while at the same time cutting its number of stockkeeping units, introducing lower-priced items, implementing a hiring freeze in certain markets and focusing on innovative products."

L’Oréal's CEO Jean-Paul Agon hopes that by incorporating these changes to the company, they will grow faster this year than other cosmetic brands. Like many companies, L’Oréal faces adversity in 2008, "with a slowdown in markets and also inventory reductions by our distributor customers who themselves were subjected to very difficult financial pressures."

North America seems to be a tough market for the company; even though mass market succeeded very well, the U.S. specifically was slightly sluggish. For 2009, the company hopes to accelerate their advertising campaign.

As for the new, innovative products, several items are in the works. For example, Lancôme’s new Oscillation mascara, which Agon hopes will "add another way the firm is adapting to the current crisis is by introducing more accessibly priced products to brands such as Garnier, L’Oréal Paris and Vichy, in order to reach a wider audience."

Overall, L’Oréal is optimistic about 2009. The more affordable items will most likely be their biggest help, but only time will tell.

Back to the Future

If you have your hand in several honey pots, something sweet is bound to happen. Designer Vera Wang can relate. With a very large and impressionable stake in the fashion world, Vera not only designs RTW apparel, but also bridal gowns, homewares, and perfume. You could say she lives a charmed existence.

In an article from WWD by Marcie Young, the author explores the future of Vera Wang. Specifically, shoes.

Collaborating with St. Louis based Brown Shoe Co. she's adding high-end shoes that match her clothes perfectly. Says Wang, “It’s very much a stylish-girl-meets-street attitude. There is a bit of femininity and toughness.” The shoe collection includes ballet flats, espadrilles, sandals, clogs, pumps, and boots.

Matching the vision of several of her compatriots, Wang has had great success with her secondary line, Vera Wang Lavender Label. Much like Prada's Miu Miu and Chloé's See By Chloé, the Lavender Label offers all of the beautiful design aesthetics of her regular line, but at a fraction of the price.

This next step is only natural for Wang, who not only has an A-list following, but major commercial appeal as well. Wang has to ability to resonate with women everywhere, and says that, "All my [products] are an expression of my own personal design vocabulary. Details on a dress can inspire bed linens or stationery, while jewelry or embellishments can adorn a bag or shoe.”

With the current economic situation of this country, it's especially prudent that Wang is giving options for everyday women with the Lavender Label. Not everyone has the disposable income necessary for lavish designer shopping spree. The secondary lines help the woman who wants to look fantastic and chic, but without maxing out her credit card. Of course, items are still not "cheap" by some women's standards. However, Wang feels that the quality of the products she offers speak for themselves.



Runway images from Style.com